Author Archives: The Wife of Bath

Hustling on the hippest corner of Riga

We may be the least hip couple in Riga, with our drip dry travel pants, matching backpacks and lack of irony.  Still, we hit the streets today (ten hours of walking!) and ended up with all the cool kids and their street art. At first, we just dipped our toes in hipness, in the Pardaugava […]

Autumn equinox in Cēsis, Latvia

You know how sometimes there’s a magic hour at dusk and the light is all golden?  Well at this time of year in Latvia golden hour lasts all day.  LATVIA IS GORGEOUS.  Cēsis, in Northern Latvia, is gorgeous and it smells like the giant national park it is adjacent to: crisp and fresh and maybe […]

Tartu: Estonia: upside-down, sideways with a snail on top

We’re in Tartu, Estonia, up to our usual tricks—at least eight hours of walking today, looking at an intriguing variety of architecture. We saw a leaning building (where a tree apparently grew out of HOB’s head). And how could we miss the upside-down house? The Snail tower dominates Tartu’s skyline. And everywhere tactile street art […]

On the run (from a nun) in Sandomierz Cathedral

Getting busted by a nun was the best thing that could have happened to us in Sandomierz.  Because of our bus snafu in Zamość, we arrived later than expected and rushed our tour of the town. Now just look how funky this town hall is, one of those types of buildings that every generation adds something […]

The ratio of children to gingerbread in Torun is more than acceptable

Our guidebook lied about Torun. Oh, it didn’t lie about Torun being lovely—it is a gorgeous medieval Polish town.  No, the lie was that it is somehow an undiscovered destination, free from tourists. Torun, at least when we visited, is loaded with tourists.  And 95% of them are children.  Children are streaming through gates of […]

Picnic at the Old Globe Theatre, San Diego

Things I did for the first time this week: Travel to California Present on a panel at a conference Wear a two piece bathing suit The last two items weren’t all that traumatic and San Diego—still the only city I’ve visited in California–is just lovely. I’m here for a conference but I’ve had bits and […]

Nowa Huta: Krakow’s cuddly ideal city

I went to Nowa Huta to gawk at a dreary communist dystopia and found myself in a Renaissance ideal city.  Oh man, I just love when this happens, the travel surprise.  In fact, not including that time we traveled to Ghent and accidentally encountered a blackface Christmas celebration have I ever had my expectations so […]

The entirely real glory of the Viet Stoss altarpiece in Krakow

When it comes to looking at altarpieces, I consider myself a professional.  I have so much experience, I could teach a class. Hmmm, how about it?  Let’s have a quick class, right this minute. How to View a Famous Altarpiece by the Wife of Bath Show up early and buy a ticket to see your […]

An express tour of Lublin, Poland (be advised that this post makes reference to squirrel testicles)

We ended up in Lublin because we missed our bus to Sandomierz.  We woke up early in Zamość because HOB was having coughing fits and, though the guy at our hostel had explained how to get to the bus station by local bus, we decided to walk instead and enjoy one final stroll through the glorious […]

Some wiggling, some crying, and lots of walking in Warsaw

HOB started and ended our Polish trip in Warsaw, sleeping at the same hostel both times.  Though we’re used to being the oldest people at the hostel, this time we were really old since the other hostel guests were kids (apparently on field trips) pre-teen or younger. HOB did not share his beer with the […]