Category Croatia

Giving torch-wielding putti the side eye in the Chapel of the Blessed Giovanni Orsini, Trogir

Okay, so I didn’t pay much attention during mass at the Cathedral of St. Lawrence in Trogir, Croatia.  I mean, I sat quietly still and was passably respectful, but my face surely resembled that of a flounder: The reason for my flounder face?  I was straining with all my power to get a look at the Chapel of […]

Weights and measurements in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is pretty….pretty touristy.  And there’s a legit reason for that: Hordes of people come to Dubrovnik because it looks like this. Visiting in late November, we avoided the belched-out-by-cruise-ships crowds while relishing the sunny, windy weather that perfectly showcased Dubrovnik’s sparking water and austere architecture.  Still, there’s a sort of dead feeling to the old […]

Liquid architecture: the sea organ of Zadar

Don’t you love it when art exceeds your expectations? We knew what we were looking for, having traveled to Zadar, Croatia just for this purpose, but still we were surprised as the lilting, moaning music emerged through the misty afternoon on the coastal promenade. The Sea Organ is a perfect work of art.  (Or is it architecture?  A […]

Just sleeping in Diocletian’s Palace, no big deal

This is where we’re sleeping tonight in Split, Croatia: Up a steep flight of stairs, on the left, is our room tonight— inside Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian–just your run of the mill nasty Roman emperor–retired here in the early 300’s AD. As a lover of classical architecture, I’m pretty stoked about it. But not as stoked […]

I may or may not have broken the house rules in Trogir

This morning we took an early bus down the coast of Croatia, with this stunning view of the Zagreb archipelago out our window. Our destination?  Trogir, the UNESCO World Heritage zone and, you might say, kind of a pretty town. Trogir is essentially an island jammed with medieval and Renaissance architecture. 13th century cathedral. Mr. wine-pressing man, […]

Coffee culture and a sack of Sauerkraut in Zagreb

Here’s a summary of our day in Zabreb so far: coffee, burek, market, walking, coffee, pizza, sculptures, sauerkraut, gay bar, walking, burek, sculptures,  OH GOD LOOK AT ALL THOSE PEOPLE DRINKING COFFEE!  DO THEY EVER STOP DRINKING COFFEE?, walking, sauerkraut. I adore Zagreb. Seriously people.  Zabreb is an authentic, handsome, pedestrian and bike friendly city, with superb public […]