I guess I had a decent understanding of Greek sculpture before visiting Athens, but it helped me a lot to see it in person. So here’s a quick art history lesson from my visits to National Archeological and the Acropolis Museums, broken down into three time periods: The Archaic Period (650 – 480 BC) If […]

Just outside of Athens’ Syntagma square, there’s a vacant arcade that must have been quite a hip center of retail in the mid-20th century. In the 21st century it seems to mostly serve as a place for sneaking a smoke (and judging by the smell, a covert bathroom break). Flanking the arcade are vintage-cool stores, […]

I’m in Athens where I’m having a hard time following my sight-seeing agenda because I just want to walk around and see things like this precious Byzantine church which is between an H&M, a TGI Fridays and a dude pimping energy drinks. What Athens also has is cats. So obviously I have to stop and […]

Let’s just get the doors over with. Alrighty, here are some Georgian doors in Dublin. Everybody happy? If you’re like me and interested in architectural heritage and planning a trip to Dublin you’re going to encounter a lot of references to these doors, which are nice I guess but being honest I found them sort […]

At dawn on the winter solstice, when the light breaks over the horizon, a beam of light channels through a box above the entry to the prehistoric tomb of Newgrange. Moving inward little by little down a narrow passageway, it reaches the heart of the chamber. This 17 minute-long yearly event is a distillation of so […]

Lots of folks travel to Ireland. Whenever I’ve asked them what they enjoyed the most, they invariably say “the pubs”. Now don’t get in my face about this, because I don’t think there’s anything wrong with going to pubs, but they just don’t appeal to me. When I was planning my trip, HOB said “If […]

Take some advice from a legit theatre nerd: go see theatre in Dublin. I chose my hotel because it is next to Abbey Theatre, a company I saw in Chicago years ago and was determined to see again. The first play I went to in Abbey Theatre was in the smaller space. I came back […]

I’m in Dublin and I guess you could say I’m getting the full Irish: From my hotel breakfast to the weather. The upside of the rainy weather is the rainbows. Yesterday I visited Trinity College. On the right is the schools chapel, known to the students as Heaven. On the left is where they take […]

When we arrived off our flight from Chicago, we planned to take a short train ride and spend the night in nearby Modena. We bought train tickets from a machine in the Bologna station but we couldn’t find the right departure track because it wasn’t posted on the electronic board, so I asked a station […]

When I booked our trip to Italy, I had a choice to fly out of either Milan or Venice for the same amount of frequent flyer miles. As a smaller and car-free city, Venice seemed like the best option for Joe, who has Parkinson’s Disease. We had visited Venice one other time, and that was […]