Author Archives: The Wife of Bath
The spiritual warmth of Deseşti and the wooden churches of Maramureş
So I have this thing about sacred art and architecture. And in all my travels to see religious art in situ, I’ve never experienced sacred spaces as unique as the wooden Churches of Maramureş in Northern Transylvania. During 1000 or so years Hungarians ruled Maramureş, they forbid the Orthodox Romanians from building churches in stone. As a delightful result, a distinct style of […]
Sighișoara, Transylvania: Dracula font with a side of Dracula sauce
As a rabid fan of medieval hill towns, I was eagerly anticipating Sighișoara, whose 14th century citadel and historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sighișoara is pretty, with pastel-colored houses all nestled inside a ring of towers. But mostly, Sighișoara is a Dracula kitsch-encrusted tourist trap. Some Goth 23 year old graphic designer probably invented the Dracula font. Vlad is […]
Moldovița Monastery and The Real Siege of Constantinople
After a six hour car ride (with several stops to enjoy marvelous views of the Rodna mountains) we pulled up to the entry of the Moldovița Monastery and hurried inside the gate. As we had limited time, HOB and planned to focus on the monastery’s masterpiece: the fresco of The Siege of Constantinople. A few […]
Traveling in Romania: some myths, some tips, and something about gypsies
Before I went to Romania several people warned me it might be dangerous, that I should look out. Oh man were they right–why just the other morning a calf escaped and took off down the dirt road with his new wobbly legs splayed all about with dad and granny chasing after him. I mean, who […]
Immersed in the traditional culture of Maramureș
Traditional culture is thriving in Maramureș, to the point where it felt at times as if we had slipped back a few centuries. The culture is alive, though, not some kind of faux-bucolic Marie Antoinette village. Villagers driving horses on wooden carts and working the land entirely without machines use cell phones. Grampa may not […]
Overjoyed and overstimulated at the Hoteni Festival in Maramureș
We’re in Maramureș, Northern Romania, close to the border of Ukraine. I need to go to sleep, but I’m overstimulated by the memories of the dancing and singing from today’s Hoteni Festival. The festival is a sort of agrarian fertility rite, a celebration of the first man to plough his field. The man is brought in […]
Eating stuffed cabbage in a forest in Transylvania and a washing machine adventure in Sibiu
Before I visited Romania I had the vague impression that the country was run amok with wild drivers, packs of rabid dogs and Dracula kitsch. Here’s what I’ve found so far: a proud folk heritage, ravishing countryside, friendly and astute people, lots of smoking and yummy (if meat-laden) food. For a taste of Transylvania’s enchanting […]
Airport eats: snacks to pack for the airport and your flight
If my mind was a pie chart there would be a large slice labeled Intense Thoughts about Snacks. A subcategory of that slice would be Travel Snacks with a sub-subcategory for Airport Snacks. And since we’re about to leave for a trip my Intense Thoughts about Snacks mind wedge is in full planning mode. Most airport food is disgusting, innutritious and […]
The surprising circus inside San Miguel de Lillo
The rewards for those intrepid travelers who hustle up Mount Naranco in a heavy rainstorm are manifold. Exhibit A: San Miguel de Lillo. This petite beauty has been rewarding water-logged church lovers since 848. Dear readers, I’m afraid I need to insist that you GO TO OVIEDO. Northern Spain is stunning and Oviedo is an architecture lover’s dream. Just […]
Picnic at the Cathedral 