Category Poland
On the run (from a nun) in Sandomierz Cathedral
Getting busted by a nun was the best thing that could have happened to us in Sandomierz. Because of our bus snafu in Zamość, we arrived later than expected and rushed our tour of the town. Now just look how funky this town hall is, one of those types of buildings that every generation adds something […]
The ratio of children to gingerbread in Torun is more than acceptable
Our guidebook lied about Torun. Oh, it didn’t lie about Torun being lovely—it is a gorgeous medieval Polish town. No, the lie was that it is somehow an undiscovered destination, free from tourists. Torun, at least when we visited, is loaded with tourists. And 95% of them are children. Children are streaming through gates of […]
Nowa Huta: Krakow’s cuddly ideal city
I went to Nowa Huta to gawk at a dreary communist dystopia and found myself in a Renaissance ideal city. Oh man, I just love when this happens, the travel surprise. In fact, not including that time we traveled to Ghent and accidentally encountered a blackface Christmas celebration have I ever had my expectations so […]
The entirely real glory of the Viet Stoss altarpiece in Krakow
When it comes to looking at altarpieces, I consider myself a professional. I have so much experience, I could teach a class. Hmmm, how about it? Let’s have a quick class, right this minute. How to View a Famous Altarpiece by the Wife of Bath Show up early and buy a ticket to see your […]
An express tour of Lublin, Poland (be advised that this post makes reference to squirrel testicles)
We ended up in Lublin because we missed our bus to Sandomierz. We woke up early in Zamość because HOB was having coughing fits and, though the guy at our hostel had explained how to get to the bus station by local bus, we decided to walk instead and enjoy one final stroll through the glorious […]
Some wiggling, some crying, and lots of walking in Warsaw
HOB started and ended our Polish trip in Warsaw, sleeping at the same hostel both times. Though we’re used to being the oldest people at the hostel, this time we were really old since the other hostel guests were kids (apparently on field trips) pre-teen or younger. HOB did not share his beer with the […]
There may be teeth in the walls of the wooden churches of Southern Małopolska
The region in Southern Poland called Małopolska has several UNESCO listed wooden churches. These churches are scattered through six different villages which aren’t reachable by public transportation and, since HOB and I don’t drive, we were in quite a pickle. I mean, it’s not like I would ever want to miss out on a UNESCO church […]
Milk Bars of Poland; cheap eats, kind strangers and two lumps of potatoes
Normally our go-to travel meals are picnics and street food. While our Polish picnics were delightful, the street food was…..well, I wouldn’t eat it. I know, that’s totally out of character (one of my adorable qualities is that I’m not a picky eater). The ubiquitous street food of Poland is the Zapiekanka: a piece of […]
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska: shrines in the mist
Imagine it’s the early 1600’s, you live in Poland and pilgrimages to the Holy Land are all the rage. Oh man, do you ever want to go to Jerusalem. But it’s not going to happen: you don’t have the money, your health is poor, and your boss won’t give you enough vacation time. Hey, don’t […]
Centennial Hall, Wrocław: every landmark Modernist building should have an erupting Wagner fountain
By the time we got to Wrocław, a college town in the western side of the country, we were full on loving Poland. Usually we make up a local name for HOB: in Poland he was Józef Burlequeski. I decided I also needed a Polish name, so I was Pani Slutski. Well anyway, Józef Burlequeski and I were […]
Picnic at the Cathedral 