Putti wrapped around columns, garlands of putti, putti with pigeons on their heads, gilded putti holding up ceilings, putti coyly offering bunches of grapes, flying heads-with-no-bodies-putti, actual children that strongly resemble putti…. Arrive in Italy and keep going South, all the way down, right there to the tip of the boot.  Did you find a […]

“Where are you from?” asked the gregarious guard at the entry to Palladio’s Villa La Rotonda.  After replying, “Chicago, USA” we braced ourselves for the usual “Al Capone, bang bang bang!” only to be surprised by the guard’s delighted smile and cheery rendition of the theme song to Married… with Children. While Chicago may be […]

HOB is the love of my life.  His relentless curiosity, long attention span, and considerable knowledge of art and music makes him an ideal traveling companion….except for when he’s a pain in my substantially-sized ass and I wish I could leave him in a locker at the train station.  To be fair, my fear of […]

The stone carvings at the Cathedral of Autun by my favorite artist, French Romanesque sculptor Gislebertus, knocked my socks off, made me laugh, and terrified me all at once.  Listen to me people: this is the real deal, some of the finest art you can ever see.  Sure, I want you to look at the pictures, […]

We arrived in Bari with a long list of sights to check out, beginning with Basilica of San Nicola.  Bari has a reputation for high crime, and the unsavory scene around the train station certainly put us on edge. Since were travelling without a cell phone, I had arranged by email to arrive at a b&b during a certain […]

We visited stark Abbaye Saint-Philibert in Tournus on a chilly winter day.  (If you’re also visiting in winter, bundle up!)  The interior was….ingenious.  Apparently transverse barrel vaulting was invented here and it’s an engineering feet which turns the vaults that normally run the length of the church’s nave sideways, like a half barrel, and transfers the […]

How could I help it?  I idealized Urbino. Even though I’ve long maintained a vigilant stance against romanticizing people and places alike, this was Urbino: Renaissance mecca for humanists, scholars, art and architecture.   The location, in the isolated and mountainous region of Italy’s Marche, combined with being a university town filled me with visions of […]

By now you know that I feel all warm in my ladyparts just thinking about Romanesque art and architecture, most especially French Romanesque.  The juiciest of all French Romanesque buildings are the pilgrimage churches, and Saint Sernin is a delightful representation of a French Romanesque pilgrimage church, complete with stunning well-preserved stone carvings, medieval frescos, capital carvings, an […]

Frankfurt is a model of efficiency and pragmatism with superior infrastructure.  The ride from the train station to the airport takes 12 minutes.  Cars politely defer to bike riders and pedestrians.  Everything is clean and orderly–even the red light district.  We walked by a “fix cafe” where drug addicts meet with social workers for clean […]

I’m really excited to learn that Lucia from http://unexpectedwanderlust.com/ has nominated me for a Liebster Award!! Thank you Lucia! What is the Liebster Award, you ask? The Liebster Award is an online award given out by fellow bloggers to new bloggers with under 500 followers to congratulate them / highlight their blog. I feel quite honored! […]