Tag Archives: travel

A private tour of Ravenswood Fellowship United Methodist Church involving many wooden beams, a fan-shaped organ, and a sobering discussion of internment camps

Earlier today an errand brought us to Ravenswood, on Chicago’s North Side, and since I’m the sort of lady who carries a copy of AIA Guide to Chicago in her backpack, HOB and I found ourselves ogling architecture in this pleasing, European-feeling community. Here’s a tip, useful for travelling at home and abroad: visit off-the-beaten-path destinations and […]

Origami toilet paper, the mystery of turn-down service, and did I mention I’m staying at a five star hotel?

So on Sunday night I arrived in Orlando with my cat hair-covered backpack and checked in here: Just me and a room full of pillows.  So.  Many.  Freaking.  Pillows. Don’t worry—I haven’t abandoned my commitment to authentic budget travel.  I just happen to be in Orlando for a conference and this is the hotel where […]

Palazzo Schifanoia: boredom sucks, why not take a ride on a swan boat?

One day at work I made friends with an intern.  His cube was across from mine and when I was walking by his desk I noticed this artwork as the background image on his computer: “Oh hey” I belted out “that’s from Palazzo Schifanoia!” You should have seen this intern’s face. “You know about Palazzo Schifanoia?!?!?!” As it […]

San Martín church in Frómista: Romanesque pilgrimage perfection and a figurine of a one-armed hobo

San Martín church in Frómista, Spain is the archetype of a Romanesque pilgrimage church.  Obviously I’m crazy about the place. It’s the clarity of the structure I love most of all.  Notice the precision of the architectural elements and the way the building cleanly meets the plaza. San Martín was built quickly—in about 15 years […]

So much boot slapping, so many gorgeous clothes: traditional dance and music in Northern Transylvania

Remember that one day we were in Hoteni, way up North in Maramures, Transylvania in the midst of a spring festival dating back to the Roman era?  That was a superlative day, a day we spent pressed up next to a small stage watching traditional Romanian music, dance and song. I attend a lot of […]

Want to travel cheap? Stay fit.

I think of budget travel as a sort of prolonged marathon.  There’s the constant walking of course—hours and hours of walking and the occasional sprint brought on by a train delay.  And the climbing.  If you love medieval hill towns as much as I do you’re in for a lot of uphill climbs.  (Pro tip: […]

The finest Romanesque mustaches are at Moissac Abbey

This church. The elegant forms.  The fantastic creatures.  The visionary composition.  The mustaches. Moissac Abbey is one of the great Romanesque churches (and admittedly deserves much better photos than what we managed with our crappy camera).  The South portal, created 1120 – 1135, and the tympanum are a masterful sculptural illustrations of the vision of […]

Taste of America: they love us for our canned frosting

Earlier this year we were in León, Spain and stumbled on this curiosity: Taste of America. Taste of America proudly proclaims to be “The Original American Supermarket” and, oh hey, we’re American.  Naturally, we went inside. I know, I know, the anticipation is killing you, so let me get right to the point.  What kinds of […]

The Allegory of Good and Bad Government: frescoes as political propaganda in Siena

Throughout Italy you’ll find almost all central town squares dominated by a church.  Not Siena: its enchanting Piazza del Campo is presided over by Palazzo Publico, aka City Hall.  Inside Palazzo Publico is another delightful surprise: secular frescoes. Ambrogio Lorenzetti painted The Allegory of Good and Bad Government frescoes inside the council chamber of Palazzo […]

Relaxing (and waxing) in Brasov

An important (and overlooked aspect) of itinerary planning is where to spend your jet lag day.  You know, that time when you’ve crammed yourself into at least two flights, failed to sleep, eaten airplane dinners with weird meat and dubious gravy,  gone way too long without showering or brushing your teeth and then—hooray!—all that’s over, […]