Author Archives: The Wife of Bath
In which the art of Thomas Kong swallows a bodega in Rogers Park
I’ve been walking by Kim’s Corner Food in Rogers Park on Chicago’s far North Side almost daily for 14 years. I went inside a few times to have keys copied. The proprietor, Thomas Kong, was always kindly and soft spoken. About five years ago this sign appeared. God is good. You are special. Fudge Brownies. Soon after, […]
Walk like Stevie Wonder and other advice for managing jet lag
Every good story needs a villain. The villain of my own life story is insomnia. As someone eager to be the hero of her own story, I battle against insomnia with a combination of protestant work ethic and desperation. During the past two years I’ve consulted four doctors, completed a 12 week sleeping class, taken three prescription medications, tried acupressure, light therapy, a […]
A private tour of Ravenswood Fellowship United Methodist Church involving many wooden beams, a fan-shaped organ, and a sobering discussion of internment camps
Earlier today an errand brought us to Ravenswood, on Chicago’s North Side, and since I’m the sort of lady who carries a copy of AIA Guide to Chicago in her backpack, HOB and I found ourselves ogling architecture in this pleasing, European-feeling community. Here’s a tip, useful for travelling at home and abroad: visit off-the-beaten-path destinations and […]
Origami toilet paper, the mystery of turn-down service, and did I mention I’m staying at a five star hotel?
So on Sunday night I arrived in Orlando with my cat hair-covered backpack and checked in here: Just me and a room full of pillows. So. Many. Freaking. Pillows. Don’t worry—I haven’t abandoned my commitment to authentic budget travel. I just happen to be in Orlando for a conference and this is the hotel where […]
Palazzo Schifanoia: boredom sucks, why not take a ride on a swan boat?
One day at work I made friends with an intern. His cube was across from mine and when I was walking by his desk I noticed this artwork as the background image on his computer: “Oh hey” I belted out “that’s from Palazzo Schifanoia!” You should have seen this intern’s face. “You know about Palazzo Schifanoia?!?!?!” As it […]
San Martín church in Frómista: Romanesque pilgrimage perfection and a figurine of a one-armed hobo
San Martín church in Frómista, Spain is the archetype of a Romanesque pilgrimage church. Obviously I’m crazy about the place. It’s the clarity of the structure I love most of all. Notice the precision of the architectural elements and the way the building cleanly meets the plaza. San Martín was built quickly—in about 15 years […]
So much boot slapping, so many gorgeous clothes: traditional dance and music in Northern Transylvania
Remember that one day we were in Hoteni, way up North in Maramures, Transylvania in the midst of a spring festival dating back to the Roman era? That was a superlative day, a day we spent pressed up next to a small stage watching traditional Romanian music, dance and song. I attend a lot of […]
Want to travel cheap? Stay fit.
I think of budget travel as a sort of prolonged marathon. There’s the constant walking of course—hours and hours of walking and the occasional sprint brought on by a train delay. And the climbing. If you love medieval hill towns as much as I do you’re in for a lot of uphill climbs. (Pro tip: […]
Gauler Twin Houses: Prairie School beauties on Chicago’s North side
Here’s why I’m one lucky lipstick and backpack wearing lady—-I live in Chicago and Chicago is bursting with unexpected architectural treats. Case in point: the Gauler Twin Houses designed by Walter Burley Griffin. Built in 1908 of stucco and wood, these houses are designed for the Midwest landscape. Walter Burley Griffin uses the strong horizontal […]
The finest Romanesque mustaches are at Moissac Abbey
This church. The elegant forms. The fantastic creatures. The visionary composition. The mustaches. Moissac Abbey is one of the great Romanesque churches (and admittedly deserves much better photos than what we managed with our crappy camera). The South portal, created 1120 – 1135, and the tympanum are a masterful sculptural illustrations of the vision of […]
Picnic at the Cathedral 