Author Archives: The Wife of Bath
Curious capital carvings in Chauvigny
By now you know I have a total ladybone for Romanesque art, most especially Romanesque sculpture. The column capitals in the Église Saint-Pierre in Chauvigny, France, have been on my must see list for a long time, and they certainly did not disappoint. The good stuff is in the 12 century choir, which was “restored” […]
Santa’s blackface helpers: culture shock in Ghent
At this time, four years ago, our train into Ghent, Belgium was just arriving. We were there to see the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb altarpiece, and it was even more amazing than expected. What was totally unexpected, was a hefty dose of culture shock, in fact my most disorienting and uncomfortable travel experience ever. […]
In which your budget traveler reveals her expenses: the price of a 10 day trip to France
I’ve heard the muttering : “It must be nice to afford Europe travel” and the insinuations about my entitlement, or even snide asides to my assumed elitism. Let’s get this straight –I am incredibly grateful to be able to travel, and I know it’s out of reach for a lot of people for financial, family […]
Abbey of Saint-Savin, romance, and Fresco Neck™
After hours of looking up at the frescoes in the Abbey of Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe, in Saint-Savin, France, we were developing a serious case of Fresco Neck™. (Fresco Neck™ is my trademarked diagnosis of the neck cramping and fatigue resulting from chronic fresco, mosaic, and stained glass viewing). Let me assure you, it was worth it. These […]
Green pâté and charred goat cheesecake: what we ate in Poitiers and Chauvigny
Wherever we travel, HOB and I try the local specialties. I can tell you the reason is because it’s a great way to participate in the culture, which is true. Also, it makes local people happy–we’ve had people gather around us in approval when we’ve sought out an unusual regional delicacy at a shop or […]
Winning window bars in Poitiers
Why can’t my window bars at home be as, um, as uplifting and exciting as these I saw in Poitiers?
Picnic at Église Notre-Dame la Grande, Poitiers
A plane to Paris, connection directly from the airport by train to Poitiers, a quick dump of our bags in the hotel by the train station, a run up a steep hill into the historical district of Potiers and voilà: two hungry and jet lagged Americans ready for a picnic. Within an hour of arrival we […]
Château de Saumur and the month of September from Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry
One of my favorite works of art is the French Gothic manuscript illumination Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry. Today we visited the Château de Saumur, in Saumur France, which is seen in the illustration of September. A great day for in situ magic! How we got to Saumur: train from Tours. Where we slept: […]
Seville’s April Fair: beautiful Andalusians and embarassing dancing
I’m not sure who was more gorgeous: the people or the horses. Weirdly, neither species was sweating, except for us, two Midwesterners broiling in the April Seville sun. The Seville April Fair or Feria de abril de Sevilla for all you non-gringos, is a yearly six day fair of Andalusian culture in Seville, Spain. […]
I’ll just have to wait for the arancini
I had a jones for Italian street food on my lunch break. Normally, I’m pretty disciplined about eating only what I pack from home, but damn, this was what crack addiction must feel like. I NEEDED ARANCINI. There’s a place by my job called L’Appetito that I walked past for years but never eaten in […]
Picnic at the Cathedral 