We’re in Maramureș, Northern Romania, close to the border of Ukraine. I need to go to sleep, but I’m overstimulated by the memories of the dancing and singing from today’s Hoteni Festival. The festival is a sort of agrarian fertility rite, a celebration of the first man to plough his field. The man is brought in […]
Before I visited Romania I had the vague impression that the country was run amok with wild drivers, packs of rabid dogs and Dracula kitsch. Here’s what I’ve found so far: a proud folk heritage, ravishing countryside, friendly and astute people, lots of smoking and yummy (if meat-laden) food. For a taste of Transylvania’s enchanting […]
If my mind was a pie chart there would be a large slice labeled Intense Thoughts about Snacks. A subcategory of that slice would be Travel Snacks with a sub-subcategory for Airport Snacks. And since we’re about to leave for a trip my Intense Thoughts about Snacks mind wedge is in full planning mode. Most airport food is disgusting, innutritious and […]
The rewards for those intrepid travelers who hustle up Mount Naranco in a heavy rainstorm are manifold. Exhibit A: San Miguel de Lillo. This petite beauty has been rewarding water-logged church lovers since 848. Dear readers, I’m afraid I need to insist that you GO TO OVIEDO. Northern Spain is stunning and Oviedo is an architecture lover’s dream. Just […]
The only time I wish I were a man is in public bathrooms and shoe stores. While I recognize that I don’t have the anatomy to use a urinal, I am beyond frustrated with shoe stores and their lack of practical options for women. Let’s say you’re a dude, and you need some decent walking […]
I use guide books when I travel, but always selectively and with skepticism. Why am I a skeptic? Because many guide books are inaccurate and poorly updated. Here’s a perfect example: for the past 18 years I’ve worked at the same museum, and throughout those 18 years customers have steadily approached our staff looking confused […]
We arrived in Arezzo at dusk and by the time we walked to the highest elevation of this medieval hill town night had fallen. The interior of San Domenico, a Gothic church, was dimly lit so we slipped a euro in a pay light-box. Crucifix, Cimabue c 1268-71. San Domenico, Arezzo. Cimabue’s startling crucifix lit up above us. Here was Jesus is […]
A few years ago I was browsing for cheap airfares (okay, so I do that everyday) when I found a remarkably cheap flight into Northern Italy. People, these tickets were under $400, in late May!!! Obviously I snapped up the tickets in a hot second. Almost as quickly, I drafted an itinerary since I already knew where I […]
Cathédrale Ste-Marie is a pilgrim magnet. Once you catch sight of this Romanesque-Gothic beauty at the foot of the Pyrenees in the village of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges you are inevitably pulled in by it’s compelling attraction. Don’t you want to come closer? Unlike the scenery, the weather during our visit to Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges was less than idyllic. Not to put […]
When it comes to travel wayfinding I’m old school—I use paper, as in maps and notes, and I talk to people. It’s not that I’m opposed to technology (although I am possibly the last non-grandmother alive still using a flip-phone), it’s just that technology can and will fail just when you need it most. How’s […]
Picnic at the Cathedral 