Tag Archives: Germany

Flatulent cheese and green sauce: what we ate in Frankfurt

HOB and I have been together 18 years, sharing a of love of art in situ and adventurous eating, and finally, in Frankfurt, I’ve found something I’ll eat that he won’t.  Handkäse mit Musik “hand cheese with music” is a sour milk cheese aged and marinated in oil and vinegar and a specialty of Frankfurt, […]

In which I meet the Bamberg Rider and the attraction is mutual

No one knows the identity of the Bamberg Rider, an equestrian statue in the Cathedral of Bamberg, though there’s no shortage of scholarly speculation.  The other great mystery is why I am so attracted to this statue.  While we were rushing uphill to the church to see him, HOB said to me “Now why is it […]

Opera heaven: watching Die Walküre in Nuremberg

Last night we watched Die Walküre at Staatstheater in Nurenberg, conviently located on Richard Wagner platz.  What a treat to watch a Wagner opera in this jewel box of a Theater! Wagner’s music was, of course, mesmerizing, but the theater aspect of the opera was impressive as well.   We were curious about the experience of  watching a quintessentially […]

Tonight I’m sleeping with the monks at Maulbronn Monastery

Tonight we’re sleeping in a monastery ….well, almost.   Our hotel is a bona fide UNESCO World Heritage sight.   It was built here right beside the Maulbronn Monastery in Southwestern Germany (and these days it comes with Wi-Fi) The grounds of the monastery, which was founded in 1147, and the enclosed cloister are strikingly well preserved.  I […]

The Roman city of Trier: grand architecture, funny signs, and suprisingly good vegan eats

312 AD was an important year. The Roman Emperor Constantine converted to Christianity and soon after, while based in Trier (in present day Germany), started building an awesome church and other amazing buildings.   Basically, Trier was the boondocks of the Roman empire, so the big shots living there got lots of money to fund amazing buildings so they […]

Aachen: a glorious cathedral and Charlemagne in gold and cookie form

We were in and out of the Cathedral of Aachen, in Aachen Germany, all day today.  While I’ll give you the yummy details later when I’m not jet lag’s bitch, I’m here to testify that it SO FREAKING AMAZING and I’m so happy I finally got to see it. This town is all about Charlemagne–we […]

Lübeck, Germany: brick Gothic or bust

We walked to the peninsula that encloses the old town of Lübeck, in the far North of Germany, towards….hmmm, a giant cone bra???  Well, actually, it was the Holstentor: a fortified medieval gate and my introduction to brick Gothic.  I’ve long been a drooling aficionado of Gothic architecture, especially it’s carved stone elements and sculpture.  Bricks, though, […]

Goslar: all fairytale, no twee

Easter Sunday in Goslar, at the foot of the Harz mountains in Germany, with a carillon in the town square at noon and a snowfall I never knew existed outside of musical theater: a fairytale village, but real.  Realness is what sets Goslar apart.  We’ve visited charming half-timber villages before, and enjoyed them, but they often […]

Bach’s St. John Passion in Leipzig: celestial voices, unbearable beauty

Listening to Bach’s St. John Passion at St. Thomas church in Leipzig, Germany, was an ethereal and indescribably moving experience.  It was Good Friday and we were in Leipzig to hear the Thomanerchor, the boy’s choir that has been performing sacred music in Leipzig for over 800 years (they board and study in the town).  Johann […]

As Slow as Possible: searching for John Cage in Halberstadt

It was snowing and we were lost in Halberstadt, Germany looking for a John Cage performance.  There were signs: “The longest piece of music in the world-639 years!” but we still had to stop passersby and ask in terrible German “Wo ist John Cage?”.  We followed a well-intentioned woman and two toddlers several blocks in […]