Tag Archives: travel
Two crucifixes in Cologne: Gero’s and Gabelkruzifix
The crucifixion of Christ is one of the most predominate symbols of Christian Art, so it’s surprising to realize that, as a form of art, it’s only developed in the last 1000 or so years. (Back in the early days, when Christians were trying to recruit converts, a symbol of a tortured man probably wasn’t so […]
Goosebumps in Speyer cathedral
Monumental but austere and a superb space to hear organ music: Speyer’s imperial cathedral is glorious. And because we seem to be the luckiest travelers ever to wear matching Rick Steves backpacks, we happened to enter just as a first-rate organist performed on the cathedral’s organ. It filled the church with sound, turning the entire building […]
Spargelzeit: Germans and their love affair with white asparagus
We’ve just returned from a lovely trip through Southern and Western Germany where we met charming people, enjoyed fine music and saw sensational art and architecture…..and white asparagus. The Germans call it Spargelzeit, which means asparagus season, but I thinks a more apt name would be Frenzied Consumption and Worship of White Vegetable Season. I […]
Flatulent cheese and green sauce: what we ate in Frankfurt
HOB and I have been together 18 years, sharing a of love of art in situ and adventurous eating, and finally, in Frankfurt, I’ve found something I’ll eat that he won’t. Handkäse mit Musik “hand cheese with music” is a sour milk cheese aged and marinated in oil and vinegar and a specialty of Frankfurt, […]
In which I meet the Bamberg Rider and the attraction is mutual
No one knows the identity of the Bamberg Rider, an equestrian statue in the Cathedral of Bamberg, though there’s no shortage of scholarly speculation. The other great mystery is why I am so attracted to this statue. While we were rushing uphill to the church to see him, HOB said to me “Now why is it […]
Opera heaven: watching Die Walküre in Nuremberg
Last night we watched Die Walküre at Staatstheater in Nurenberg, conviently located on Richard Wagner platz. What a treat to watch a Wagner opera in this jewel box of a Theater! Wagner’s music was, of course, mesmerizing, but the theater aspect of the opera was impressive as well. We were curious about the experience of watching a quintessentially […]
Tonight I’m sleeping with the monks at Maulbronn Monastery
Tonight we’re sleeping in a monastery ….well, almost. Our hotel is a bona fide UNESCO World Heritage sight. It was built here right beside the Maulbronn Monastery in Southwestern Germany (and these days it comes with Wi-Fi) The grounds of the monastery, which was founded in 1147, and the enclosed cloister are strikingly well preserved. I […]
The Roman city of Trier: grand architecture, funny signs, and suprisingly good vegan eats
312 AD was an important year. The Roman Emperor Constantine converted to Christianity and soon after, while based in Trier (in present day Germany), started building an awesome church and other amazing buildings. Basically, Trier was the boondocks of the Roman empire, so the big shots living there got lots of money to fund amazing buildings so they […]
Aachen: a glorious cathedral and Charlemagne in gold and cookie form
We were in and out of the Cathedral of Aachen, in Aachen Germany, all day today. While I’ll give you the yummy details later when I’m not jet lag’s bitch, I’m here to testify that it SO FREAKING AMAZING and I’m so happy I finally got to see it. This town is all about Charlemagne–we […]
Guess where?
We’re headed to the airport on our way to see outrageously excellent art and architecture, six UNESCO Word Heritage sights and an opera. Guess where? Our cat Janacek is providing a hint below:
Picnic at the Cathedral 