Okay, so I didn’t pay much attention during mass at the Cathedral of St. Lawrence in Trogir, Croatia. I mean, I sat quietly still and was passably respectful, but my face surely resembled that of a flounder:
My plan all along was to spend a lavish amount of time exploring the Cathedral of St Lawrence. We were visiting off season and I found it impossible to find out the churches’ opening hours in advance. (Confidential to the tourist office of Trogir: you might try putting this information on your website, or at least reply to emails from prospective visitors). We ended up arriving in Trogir around noon, to learn to my annoyance that the cathedral was open only from 8:00 am to noon. Alrighty then, we’d just have to postpone our bus trip the next day, and in the meantime, go to mass so we could at least get an idea of the interior.
Here’s what my left eye strained towards during mass (and both eyes took in the next morning). Created in 1468 – 72 by Niccolò di Giovanni Fiorentino and Andrija Alesi, the Chapel of the Blessed Giovanni Orsini is a Renaissance masterpiece.
There are some decent statues of the apostles along the side niches of the chapel, and a Coronation of the Virgin over the carved casket of the first bishop of Rome, Giovanni Orsini.
But who cares about those old guys? It’s the putti who steal the show in the Orsini chapel.
These are no ordinary putti. People, these are torch bearing putti.
Putti with flowing scarves and chubby legs.
These putti are busting through marble doors like tubby super heroes of the Renaissance.
And you know what? These bad boys are even holding up the cornices!
Bit of a flasher vibe here….
And to top it all off: on the ceiling—-bowling God and his disembodied putti head entourage.
The exterior of St Lawrence is Romanesque-Gothic. Who could guess that a Renaissance surprise hides inside to reward the side eye of a curious traveler?
How we got to Trogir: bus from Zadar.
Where we slept: Villa Carrara. Price: the going price is €69 for a double, but since we were moved here due to a mix-up with another B&B, we paid €40. Recommended: yes.