Nothing engages a train car full of French people than when an old lady tells two Americans that their country’s cheese sucks.  On our way to Tours, France, an elderly woman took up conversation with HOB, and in finding that we are American, loudly and in great detail denounced our country’s cheese, much to the […]

By now you know I have a total ladybone for Romanesque art, most especially Romanesque sculpture.  The column capitals in the Église Saint-Pierre in Chauvigny, France, have been on my must see list for a long time, and they certainly did not disappoint. The good stuff is in the 12 century choir, which was “restored” […]

At this time, four years ago, our train into Ghent, Belgium was just arriving.  We were there to see the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb altarpiece, and it was even more amazing than expected.  What was totally unexpected, was a hefty dose of culture shock, in fact my most disorienting and uncomfortable travel experience ever. […]

I’ve heard the muttering : “It must be nice to afford Europe travel” and the insinuations about my entitlement, or even snide asides to my assumed elitism.  Let’s get this straight –I am incredibly grateful to be able to travel, and I know it’s out of reach for a lot of people  for financial, family […]

After hours of looking up at the frescoes in the Abbey of Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe, in Saint-Savin, France, we were developing a serious case of Fresco Neck™. (Fresco Neck™  is my trademarked diagnosis of the neck cramping and fatigue resulting from chronic fresco, mosaic, and stained glass viewing).  Let me assure you, it was worth it.  These […]

Wherever we travel, HOB and I try the local specialties.  I can tell you the reason is because it’s a great way to participate in the culture, which is true.  Also, it makes local people happy–we’ve had people gather around us in approval when we’ve sought out an unusual regional delicacy at a shop or […]

Why can’t my window bars at home be as, um, as uplifting and exciting as these I saw in Poitiers?

A plane to Paris, connection directly from the airport by train to Poitiers, a quick dump of our bags in the hotel by the train station, a run up a steep hill into the historical district of Potiers and voilà: two hungry and jet lagged Americans ready for a picnic.  Within an hour of arrival we […]

One of my favorite works of art is the French Gothic manuscript illumination Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry. Today we visited the Château de Saumur, in Saumur France, which is seen in the illustration of September. A great day for in situ magic! How we got to Saumur: train from Tours. Where we slept: […]

I’m not sure who was more gorgeous: the people or the horses.   Weirdly, neither species was sweating, except for us, two Midwesterners broiling in the April Seville sun.  The Seville April Fair or Feria de abril de Sevilla for all you non-gringos, is a yearly six day fair of Andalusian culture in Seville, Spain.  […]