Tag Archives: Architecture

I may or may not have broken the house rules in Trogir

This morning we took an early bus down the coast of Croatia, with this stunning view of the Zagreb archipelago out our window. Our destination?  Trogir, the UNESCO World Heritage zone and, you might say, kind of a pretty town. Trogir is essentially an island jammed with medieval and Renaissance architecture. 13th century cathedral. Mr. wine-pressing man, […]

The unanticipated side effects of a picnic at Pont Valentré, Cahors

Want to visit a unique city nestled inside a bend in a river, an authentic and non-touristy town with highly-cultivated gastronomy? Yes?  Then Cahors is for you. But wait until you get a look at this bridge—now you’re sold, aren’t you? The Southwestern region of France is teeming with medievalist catnip, and Cahors’ Pont Valentré is […]

My ten favorite works of art in situ and why you should see art in its original context

Of course I had a conversion experience: it happened in Florence, back when I wasn’t such a prepared traveler.  HOB and I were on our honeymoon eating too much gelato and wandering through the art historical wonders of this Renaissance city.  We entered the Museum of San Marco on a whim and were instantly drawn […]

A private tour of Ravenswood Fellowship United Methodist Church involving many wooden beams, a fan-shaped organ, and a sobering discussion of internment camps

Earlier today an errand brought us to Ravenswood, on Chicago’s North Side, and since I’m the sort of lady who carries a copy of AIA Guide to Chicago in her backpack, HOB and I found ourselves ogling architecture in this pleasing, European-feeling community. Here’s a tip, useful for travelling at home and abroad: visit off-the-beaten-path destinations and […]

San Martín church in Frómista: Romanesque pilgrimage perfection and a figurine of a one-armed hobo

San Martín church in Frómista, Spain is the archetype of a Romanesque pilgrimage church.  Obviously I’m crazy about the place. It’s the clarity of the structure I love most of all.  Notice the precision of the architectural elements and the way the building cleanly meets the plaza. San Martín was built quickly—in about 15 years […]

Gauler Twin Houses: Prairie School beauties on Chicago’s North side

Here’s why I’m one lucky lipstick and backpack wearing lady—-I live in Chicago and Chicago is bursting with unexpected architectural treats.  Case in point: the Gauler Twin Houses designed by Walter Burley Griffin. Built in 1908 of stucco and wood, these houses are designed for the Midwest landscape.  Walter Burley Griffin uses the strong horizontal […]

The finest Romanesque mustaches are at Moissac Abbey

This church. The elegant forms.  The fantastic creatures.  The visionary composition.  The mustaches. Moissac Abbey is one of the great Romanesque churches (and admittedly deserves much better photos than what we managed with our crappy camera).  The South portal, created 1120 – 1135, and the tympanum are a masterful sculptural illustrations of the vision of […]

Do not wear a tube top when visiting Voroneț Monastery

Listen up people: the stunning Voroneţ Monastery was built in only three months and three weeks in the year of 1488.  And if that wasn’t remarkable enough, it’s colorful exterior frescoes are magically well-preserved.  This is a world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site and you absolutely should not visit while wearing a tube top and jeans shorts.  SHOW SOME […]

The spiritual warmth of Deseşti and the wooden churches of Maramureş

So I have this thing about sacred art and architecture.  And in all my travels to see religious art in situ, I’ve never experienced sacred spaces as unique as the wooden Churches of Maramureş in Northern Transylvania.  During 1000 or so years Hungarians ruled Maramureş, they forbid the Orthodox Romanians from building churches in stone.  As a delightful result, a distinct style of […]

Moldovița Monastery and The Real Siege of Constantinople

After a six hour car ride (with several stops to enjoy marvelous views of the Rodna mountains) we pulled up to the entry of the Moldovița Monastery and hurried inside the gate.  As we had limited time, HOB and planned to focus on the monastery’s masterpiece: the fresco of The Siege of Constantinople. A few […]