The tenacious cultural heritage of Setomaa

YOU ARE ENTERING THE TERRITORY OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION!

russia

Yeah, so we technically veered into Russia without a visa a couple of times during our visit to the Setomaa region of Estonia, but someone tell my mom it was okay because we didn’t stop the car.

map

The pink line shows the border between Russia and Estonia and the blue/yellow line is the road.

Swerving through national borders: that’s a pretty good introduction to the complexity of Seto culture in the region covering southeastern Estonia and northwestern Russia.

varskafarm

We started our visit to Setomaa in Värska where our guide Helen met us shortly after we got off our bus.  Our first stop was at a Seto farm turned museum.

dooe

The Seto people are native to this region, with their own language and architecture that reflects the tight knit culture.  Traditionally they lived in clusters of buildings inside of a sort of courtyard.  They often had fancy gates like this.

Don’t you love the thatched roof?

oven

An oven is at the center of the living quarters.  As you can imagine in country with cold winters, a spot close to the oven was a coveted place to sleep.

spread

After the farm we stopped at a “pop up café”— these are homes where locals cook for guests part of the year.  Our hostess presented us with a lovely spread of homemade bread, smoked ham, jams and pickles.nom

chef

A toast to the chef, whose daughter also had vibrant red hair

The dish that looks like polenta is sõir, a Seto specialty which is kind of  like warm cottage cheese but better.

church

St Paraskeva’s Church in Saatse, c. 1801.

Unlike the rest of Estonia, which is largely either non-religious or Lutheran, the Setos are Orthodox Christian.

madonna

The Orthodox practice in Setomaa is unique.  This charming Madonna icon inside Paraskeva’s Church, for example, is decorated with the traditional silver necklace worn by Seto women.god

Pagan practices are intermixed with the Orthodox in Seto.  The god Peko, seen here in a recently  made sculpture, is both a harvest god and a folk hero honored in a yearly festival

 

 

 

We had the chance to participate in Seto religious customs thanks to Helen, who took us to a feast day celebration in honor of St. Mary at a chapel in the village of Laossina.

drinking

Following a service, the people of the village laid out picnics on the graves of their ancestors and hung out there, snacking, chatting, and chasing toddlers around.  The nice people we met offered HOB local wine and we ate herring on buttered bread.  The priest went about from grave to grave, eating, drinking and praying with each family.  (The poor guy was probably awake for three days after all the coffee he gulped down.)

medieval

Stone crosses dating from 1400-1600’s

Visiting and maintaining ancestral gravesites is essential to Seto culture.  The Estonian/Russian border, however, can make this tradition a challenge.  A Seto family might live in Russia, but their ancestral graves are a few kilometers away just inside of Estonia.  They need to care for the gravesites but in order to do so, they have to pay for an expensive visa and can only enter through an approved border crossing 100 kilometers away and only then on a few pre-approved days of the year.

lamb

The gravesite snacking migrated over to a nearby area with a fire pit, where a man started putting together a giant lamb stew over the fire.  He is wearing a traditional embroidered shirt—-you can’t see how the shirt is belted because the table is in the way, but the side where the belt is knotted indicates whether the man is married or (k)not.

This man—clearly because he is an excellent cook—is already spoken for: sorry ladies.

setomaaoniontown

While the lamb stew bubbled over the fire, we took a walk though the nearby village of Lüübnitsa.  On the upper left you can see a bit of Lake Pskov.  The other side of the lake is—you guessed it—Russia.

onions.

mushroom

 

 

Lüübnitsa is known for growing onions.  Helen bought some from a woman stringing them together in her garage.

tree

 

 

 

When we returned to Laossina we found some of the people singing in a circle.  This form of singing, called Seto Leelo, was what had attracted me to the Seto culture in the first place.  Seto Leelo, recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage practice, is a form of polyphonic signing from mostly Seto women.

It was quite a privilege to hear this gorgeous singing up close.  As far as I can understand, each woman takes her turn introducing the song and the rest join in to repeat the chorus.  I believe there is a fair amount of improvisation involved and of course, the songs are sung in the Seto language.

(One of the singers in the video—the lady with the tan jacket—was our excellent guide Helen).

kids

I’ve never been anywhere where people aren’t proud of their cultural heritage.  People around the world are savvy, self-aware and friendly (like the residents of Laossina who kindly allowed us to crash their feast day festivities). The Seto people, however, are exceptional in their fierce dedication to preserving their cultural traditions.  All of the (super cute) kids seem to be taking Seto music lessons.  People are knitting, embroidering and making homemade wine.  Those families who live and work outside of Setomaa return to the area during the summer and live in traditional homes with outdoor smoke saunas.  Contests and festivals reward those who retain the language and embrace traditional practices.  Keeping this culture alive is going to be a struggle, especially due to the Russia/Estonia border, but if anyone can do it the Setos can.

bottle

Värska, the town where we stayed the night, is known for its mineral water so we bought a bottle.  Since I can’t sleep, I stayed up reading in bed and took a weirdly beautiful picture with my book light  projecting the green bottle of mineral water over the sleeping form of HOB.

 

 

How we got to Setomaa: bus from Tartu to Värska and then our guide Helen drove us around.
Where we slept: Hirvemäe Holiday Park.  Price: €45 for a double. Recommended: no.

8 comments

  1. What a stunning place! I’m envious. Meanwhile, I’m about 4 hours behind schedule in Minneapolis, hopefully on
    the way to Copenhagen. The hydraulics are busted so they are bringing in a different plane. (Don’t the hydraulics keep the plane in the air?!)

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Weren’t you also traveling on Thanksgiving last year too? Taking advantage of the cheap flights, smart lady! I hope you have a wonderful trip to Scandinavia (and I’m not going to think any scary things about airplanes no no no no no).

      Like

      1. Right, I’ve cooked enough Thanksgiving dinners, so we pretty much always travel on this day. We have invitations for dinner, of course, but we’re kind of a pain because we won’t eat turkey. Hoping for the best from the new plane.

        Like

  2. Sounds like a very lovely place, as long as you don’t have ancestors buried across the border. I couldn’t tear myself away from the photo of the dark bread with those thick slices of ham. Did the herring come with that bread?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. We couldn’t tear ourselves away from that meal either—we ate every crumb. No, we didn’t have any herring until we went to the gravesites.

      Liked by 1 person

  3. So many things I love in this post. That dreamy photo of the house with the flower garden around it – or maybe the one with the willow tree… The video of that mesmerizing music, the kids with instruments. And that otherworldly, slightly spooky shot of HOB in a bottle. And of course your writing and yet another incredible spot of the world. So when’s the book out? You know you’d get a deal, right? Seriously. Your number of followers, your quirky wonderful writing style, the amazing places you discover.
    But the question I really want an answer to is what lipstick is that you always sport so gorgeously?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Tricia, you are always so kind. I think the most crucial question here is about the lipstick, which is a serious matter and financial commitment. (Get behind me, Sephora!) I have a few shades but I wore Mon Cheri by Laura Mercier. If you have a hot lead for a great matte red, please let me know ASAP.

      We do really just seem to have great travel luck (and in times like this the ability to find the perfect guide). I took about a dozen pictures in the village with the onions and they are all dreamy—I think it would be hard to take a bad picture there.

      The music was really out of this world and it was quite nice to hear the little accordions (I forgot what they’re called) being played.

      I don’t think I would be a good candidate for a book—my spelling and punctuation are so bad I would give the editor a stroke.

      Liked by 1 person

      1. I’ll let you know. And you’re wrong — that’s what editors do! I’m telling you from my 20 years of working in a bookstore – you’d get a deal. (and some flogging of my own) Do it! Finance those travels!

        Liked by 1 person

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