Autumn equinox in Cēsis, Latvia

You know how sometimes there’s a magic hour at dusk and the light is all golden?  Well at this time of year in Latvia golden hour lasts all day.  LATVIA IS GORGEOUS.  Cēsis, in Northern Latvia, is gorgeous and it smells like the giant national park it is adjacent to: crisp and fresh and maybe mushroomy.


Also, there are lots of cats.



Cēsis does not have sights: it has ambiance.


HOB actually told me he felt relaxed and this dude never is relaxed.


This morning we went to the market in Cēsis to buy some eats for the day.


Is this autumn equinox in the form of produce, or what?  It was all tasty.


But here’s the most important thing to know about Latvia:  biezpiens.  This succulent object comes from the refrigerator case at the grocery store.  It is made of a kind of fermented, pressed cheese covered in chocolate.  Oh. My. Gods. Of. The. Baltics.  This is the best dessert of all time and I do solemnly swear to eat it multiple times a day for a long as I am in Latvia.


How we got to Cēsis: bus from Värska to Valga, followed by a train from Valga to Cēsis.
Where we slept: Hotel Cēsis.  Price: €50 for a double. Recommended: yes.


  1. Always looking for new desserts, especially ones with chocolate. And you can buy biezpiena at the grocery store? Sounds like the best diet-buster since Nutella!

    Liked by 2 people

    1. You buy it at the grocery store, but as far as I know [sobbing quietly] you can only get it in Latvia. Maybe you could get lucky and track it down in Sweden.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Getting your protein from dessert, I see. How sensible.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. I mean, it’s fermented and so it has probiotics—that’s healthy, right?

      Liked by 1 person

  3. No cat next to the lady in the fountain? So disappointing.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. A shame for sure, but there was a pair of black swans. (My picture of them was so terrible—they look like the Loch Ness Monster).

      Liked by 1 person

  4. That light! Even trough the pictures you can feel a nice ambiance!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. The light is sideways since the sun is never overhead—it makes everything dappled with light filtered through the trees.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. I remember having some frozen cheesy chocolate dessert type thing when in Russia, it was weird at first but once you stopped thinking it was chocolate covered cheese well….we just had to try the rest of the flavours.
    Thanks for the Latvia review, it sounds ace, have fun you guys xx

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Aaargh, I can believe I missed the chance to try them frozen—have to go back!


  7. Healthy cats, illogically sinful desserts, wacky buildings- you are on a roll!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I need to write so many posts about the delightful country of Latvia. Where do I start?

      Liked by 1 person

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