Author Archives: The Wife of Bath
Tartu: Estonia: upside-down, sideways with a snail on top
We’re in Tartu, Estonia, up to our usual tricks—at least eight hours of walking today, looking at an intriguing variety of architecture. We saw a leaning building (where a tree apparently grew out of HOB’s head). And how could we miss the upside-down house? The Snail tower dominates Tartu’s skyline. And everywhere tactile street art […]
On the run (from a nun) in Sandomierz Cathedral
Getting busted by a nun was the best thing that could have happened to us in Sandomierz. Because of our bus snafu in Zamość, we arrived later than expected and rushed our tour of the town. Now just look how funky this town hall is, one of those types of buildings that every generation adds something […]
The ratio of children to gingerbread in Torun is more than acceptable
Our guidebook lied about Torun. Oh, it didn’t lie about Torun being lovely—it is a gorgeous medieval Polish town. No, the lie was that it is somehow an undiscovered destination, free from tourists. Torun, at least when we visited, is loaded with tourists. And 95% of them are children. Children are streaming through gates of […]
Picnic at the Old Globe Theatre, San Diego
Things I did for the first time this week: Travel to California Present on a panel at a conference Wear a two piece bathing suit The last two items weren’t all that traumatic and San Diego—still the only city I’ve visited in California–is just lovely. I’m here for a conference but I’ve had bits and […]
Nowa Huta: Krakow’s cuddly ideal city
I went to Nowa Huta to gawk at a dreary communist dystopia and found myself in a Renaissance ideal city. Oh man, I just love when this happens, the travel surprise. In fact, not including that time we traveled to Ghent and accidentally encountered a blackface Christmas celebration have I ever had my expectations so […]
The entirely real glory of the Viet Stoss altarpiece in Krakow
When it comes to looking at altarpieces, I consider myself a professional. I have so much experience, I could teach a class. Hmmm, how about it? Let’s have a quick class, right this minute. How to View a Famous Altarpiece by the Wife of Bath Show up early and buy a ticket to see your […]
An express tour of Lublin, Poland (be advised that this post makes reference to squirrel testicles)
We ended up in Lublin because we missed our bus to Sandomierz. We woke up early in Zamość because HOB was having coughing fits and, though the guy at our hostel had explained how to get to the bus station by local bus, we decided to walk instead and enjoy one final stroll through the glorious […]
Some wiggling, some crying, and lots of walking in Warsaw
HOB started and ended our Polish trip in Warsaw, sleeping at the same hostel both times. Though we’re used to being the oldest people at the hostel, this time we were really old since the other hostel guests were kids (apparently on field trips) pre-teen or younger. HOB did not share his beer with the […]
There may be teeth in the walls of the wooden churches of Southern Małopolska
The region in Southern Poland called Małopolska has several UNESCO listed wooden churches. These churches are scattered through six different villages which aren’t reachable by public transportation and, since HOB and I don’t drive, we were in quite a pickle. I mean, it’s not like I would ever want to miss out on a UNESCO church […]
Milk Bars of Poland; cheap eats, kind strangers and two lumps of potatoes
Normally our go-to travel meals are picnics and street food. While our Polish picnics were delightful, the street food was…..well, I wouldn’t eat it. I know, that’s totally out of character (one of my adorable qualities is that I’m not a picky eater). The ubiquitous street food of Poland is the Zapiekanka: a piece of […]
Picnic at the Cathedral 